RALPH & RUSSO / HAUTE COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2016 / PARIS FASHION WEEK
Closing the official calendar of Haute Couture in Paris, British brand Ralph & Russo presented their latest collection.
The Pavilion Cambon Capucines served the best setting to Ralph & Russo dreamy spring 2016 couture collection.
Ralph & Russo is a luxury goods company and haute couture fashion house. It became the first and only British house to be elected by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show its collection on the official schedule at Paris Haute Couture Week, alongside brands such as Chanel, Dior & Valentino etc..
The collection was inspired by nature, more specifically by the world of flowers: indeed the designing due did not spare the trimming, as roses, ivy leaves, peonies and tulips made their appearance on most of the dresses, in form of hand – painted, sculpted or appliquéd details. Models walked down the runway wearing luxurious ball gowns, which presented a delicate allusion to lingerie: silk chiffon night robes and corseted bustier, that is definitely a couture boudoir.
Floral myth incarnated in the pastel loveliness of dresses playing with light and lightness through open cutwork, guipure and crosshatch appliqué. It was an ode to nature, delivered by the hand of Tamara Ralph and her atelier.
As the show wore on, shapes became more opulent, as did their adornments. One coat dress was extravagantly embroidered, peppered with hundreds of flower-shaped elements connected together in an intricate pattern. The trailing sleeves, so long they rivaled furisode kimono style, opened to reveal the surprise of a creamy white interior. 3D flower buds competed with metallic thread, resin embroidery with geometric pearl embroidery. Degrades of organzas painted in soft-hued shades were sculpted into floral shapes.
Male attendants came to turn the bride’s voluminous train, which seemed an improbably ceremonious way of returning her down the runway.
You could see a flicker, finally, of what Ralph is all about in her technique. One light peach gown had soft pleats tumbling down the shoulders in a capelet connected at the back and neck. Another formed an ovoid shape, connecting a cocktail-length dress with its puffball cape, that felt novel and flattering. A sheer black organza dress played demure with its floral applique. There cannot be any doubt that she has talent and that she knows the feminine form down to the very last curve. And certainly she is a terrific dress maker, able to capture the desires of her couture clients and deliver them fully.
I think that this collection was a compendium of classic shapes, “couture-by-number”. Most certainly, a tighter edit would make the best designs truly stand out. As it were, it was a herbarium of preserved flowers, collected for exhaustivity’s sake. As any gardening enthusiast will know, even the wildest English gardens needs weeding. This collection will make you look amazing in the crowd due to its elegant and modern as well as glamorous styles.
And how would you close such a show?
With a monumental bridal gown worn by Brazilian top model Isabeli Fontana!
The multi-layered gown featured kimono-like sleeves, a duchess satin bustier and a three-metre train. Everything was embroidered with 3D silk and metallic thread-work, silver bullion, silk organza petals, pearls and crystals. An impressive work of art, that required six people to help the model turn around at the end of the runway. 🙂
Ralph & Russo collection people call “A match made in heaven.” .
Their love for fashion and incredible talent is giving Elie Saab a run for his money when it comes to couture.
Tamara Ralph & Michael Russo, haute couture house Ralph & Russo is a favorite of Beyonce and Angelina Jolie and me! 🙂
See
Ralph & Russo | Haute Couture Spring Summer 2016 Full Show | Exclusive
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