LONDON FASHION WEEK – BURBERRY SPRING/SUMMER 2016 COLLECTION

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One of my favorites of the English designers – Dear Christopher Bailey showed his ability to think ahead in London, Buberry’s – New collection- Spring/Summer 2016 “Ready to wear line.”  

Collection  – He didn’t only design for the spring weather, but instead created garments that could easily transition between seasons. Of course, it wouldn’t be in the classic Burberry style to leave trench coats to the collection, so it really added an element of diversity. Knowing these garments could be worn year round. 

Bailey had a clear vision of a young, urban woman in mind as he designed this collection, with various features supporting his muse.
Lace, silk, and mesh were gloriously merged together in one collection, celebrating modern fashion and the female body. And, in Burberry fashion, each look presented on the runway would look just as gorgeous if paired with one of their signature pieces of outerwear.

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 Backpacks were a recurring theme in this collection, and each one bore the initials of the model carrying it. This, alongside the youthful silhouettes, gave the image of an urban college student. The show started out by showing the audience exactly what the rest of the line would hold: youthful modernity, seduction, and spectacular coats.

The first look, under the coat, was featured in slightly different styles throughout the collection, and seemed to resemble lingerie. This sexy element really spiced up the collection, and also introduced the slip, which is a staple piece for Spring/Summer. 

Trench coats worn as dresses were a common and fabulous trend on the runway, which is an interesting suggestion for spring. But without the presence of tights or other warming apparel, I can’t see the problem when the look is so beautiful. With so many jackets, it’s hard to choose a few highlights, but one true standout was a black, classic-cut trench coat with gold piping and buttons. This is no new sight on the runway, especially for Burberry, yet it was still a breathtaking piece.

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 Clearly Bailey is doing something right if he can take such an ordinary piece and make it carry such a large runway presence.
With similar fashion – no pun intended, a particularly modern interpretation of the trench coat walked the catwalk in black lace with large black buttons. Head to toe, the model embodied a new persona; one of an urban girl with a grungy side, presented with dark red lipstick, black chain bag, and strappy black heels.

To continue raving about the coat-dresses, a final eye-catching design was the trench coat with a more flared-out bottom, more resembling a dress, with a definitely lighter color palette and floral print. This seems to be a more feminine twist on the last mentioned coat, but was shown with the same strong makeup.

This is where the remarkable connection comes into play, where there are three similar dresses presented, and all with a different girl in mind. We have a classic woman, one with a grungier, dark side, and one with a feminine twist. Each model appeared to be targeting the same age range, so it seems Burberry is trying to reach a larger market of women, which translated really well into their ready-to-wear collection.

To go along with this idea, you can see the variety of influences in the Burberry Prorsum spring 2016 collection, and can definitely see there was no singular type of client targeted.
Bailey himself admitted to the collection being a “Mash up of things he really loves.” And it shows.

You could see the grunge, the lace, the classical elements, the femininity, and the beautiful sculpting done on the clothing. He also went forward with the initialed backpacks, which people can actually order to their liking for a short time.
While some people may be turned off by this blatant disarray of styles, I personally love that Bailey tested the waters, yet still managed to make a cohesive line based solely on target age.

He styled for men and women with a variety of personal styles, and I think the clothes speak for themselves.
They stand strong and united, despite the vast spectrum of women who will be wearing the fabulous clothes presented on Burberry’s runway.

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Afterwards, Bailey said he had wanted 

“To play with the fusing of very real, and relaxed pieces. – That new leather-trimmed nylon rucksack perhaps?
With something much more formal and decorative”.

Think back to how you felt when you saw that picture of Lady Di wearing the wrong (i.e. day) coat over her first official ball gown.
This was the effect here, only much, much slicker.

Gauzy spotty voile shifts were layered over opaque underwear – yes, it’s a big yes to Bridget Jones knickers.
What could be more trad than that?

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 This has nothing to do with the blingy kerpow decoration – crocodile coats that creaked when the models walked past, crystal overload, that swept fashion during the bull years.

It was soft, lovely, one of Bailey’s best collections in years and deliberately or otherwise, felt like a William Morris-y championing of traditional artisanal crafts.

Never let it be forgotten however, that Bailey is also CEO and as keen as ever on harnessing the digital revolution to achieve maximum exposure for his brand – business is business.

The live performance, with its classy front row and poetic stop the world – I want to get off clothes may speak to his heart!

London fashion week, Burberry’s latest show was a paean to the old school way of doing business. A grand piano was located centre stage – plus a full orchestra, plus Alison Moyet, who obligingly and elegiacally revisited her greatest hits while the Burberry models went through their paces.

See..

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Beata Gliniecka ; Fashion is the love of my life. That's what I'm writing and creating do with passion!

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