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For Spring 2017, designers Dao–Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne discover new meaning in the codes of DKNY, in which the aspirational meets the practical.

The resulting collection resides in a futuristic place called “Neo Soho.” Distinct pieces are ruled by contrast—soft and hard, elegance and street, tech and tradition, construction and deconstruction.

The designers place an emphasis on femininity, highlighting the waist and revealing the body via transparency.

The effect yields a contemporary, urban, free–spirited sexiness. – from DKNY 

Recently appointed DKNY creative directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow?

Would the honchos at G-III have a say in this collection?  

Would the vision for DKNY be meaningfully different? 

The collection Osborne and Chow showed was effectively completed before the sale was announced, but by coincidence, its futuristic theme was fitting, given that the DKNY future is now unwritten.

The fact that the design duo’s take on futurism had a, let’s say, dystopian mien was not, they made clear, anything to be read deeply into.

Rather, the idea was merely to advance the DKNY signatures—the pinstripe tailoring, the activewear elements, the modular separates, the streetwise attitude – and project it some years hence, into a Blade Runner–ish Big Apple. 

There was an interesting idea humming below the surface here. When Chow and Osborne hit their stride in this show, it was in their variations on certain looks—notably, the hoodie and the anorak—that augured a hunger for uniformity.

It’s funny to think that Star Trek may have had it right all along: Perhaps the glut of consumer choice and the pressure to create a niche personal brand will eventually curdle, and backlash into a yearning to blend in, and be one of many.

This DKNY show hinted at an aesthetics of collectivity, and its potential made you sit up a little straighter in your seat and pay attention… 

Think of all the best bits in fashion for the past years, now toss ’em all in some magical machine, and ta-daaa: take a step back, sip that latte (or wine, why the hell not) and watch the most beautiful looks ever roll out in front of you. It’s gonna be a great spring/summer 2017!!!  

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Beata Gliniecka ; Fashion is the love of my life. That's what I'm writing and creating do with passion!

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