DIOR SPRING/ SUMMER 2018 READY TO WEAR / PARIS

By  |  0 Comments

Highlights from the Spring-Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear show, presented at the Musee Rodin in Paris on September 26th, 2017.

Maria Grazia Chiuri has her mind set on infusing her feminist sensibilities into the feminine house of Christian Dior.

“As in all fairy tales, before finding the treasure, on my way I met dragons, witches, magicians and the angel of temperance.”

– Niki de Saint Phalle

See fashion show Dior SS 2018

During her research in the Dior archives, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Artistic Director of the women’s collections, had her interest piqued by a series of photographs of Niki de Saint Phalle.

On one of them, the artist can be seen on a camel, on others, she’s posing for Dior during the tenure of her great friend Marc Bohan, then creative head of the House.

Embodying the beauty of her time, more adolescent than androgynous, small and fiery, she exhibits a style of dressing that’s both iconic and personal, and current in its proportions and whimsy.

Her life is the stuff of literature.

At the time of the liberation of women, Niki de Saint Phalle threw herself into a close relationship with art, the world and herself.

Like all artists, she was driven by her emotions…  

Director of the women’s collections, had her interest piqued by a series of photographs of Niki de Saint Phalle.

On one of them, the artist can be seen on a camel, on others, she’s posing for Dior during the tenure of her great friend Marc Bohan, then creative head of the House.

Embodying the beauty of her time, more adolescent than androgynous, small and fiery, she exhibits a style of dressing that’s both iconic and personal, and current in its proportions and whimsy.

Her life is the stuff of literature.

At the time of the liberation of women, Niki de Saint Phalle threw herself into a close relationship with art, the world and herself.

Like all artists, she was driven by her emotions.

And it is this feminine creativity that speaks to Maria Grazia Chiuri. 

Why have there not been great women artists?

This is the question posed by Linda Nochlin’s essay in 1971, which also called out to Maria Grazia Chiuri.

It is necessary to give these different and specific artists their due, for it’s they who break the mold of the traditionally male discourse in art history, and in fashion.

These are the Nanas, sculptures of extraordinary women, but also the multicolored hearts, the dragons, the tree of love, and the exaggerated and over-the-top masterwork, the Tarot Garden in Tuscany, which become patterns, broken embroideries and mirror mosaics in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection and the show scenography.

She is not afraid to take Niki de Saint Phalle’s exuberantly colorful palette and to make it dialogue with lace, silk, leather or plastic. 

This collection, inspired by the artist, also makes reference to Marc Bohan, and his little dresses and jumpsuits, sometimes teamed with full skirts opening at the front.

There are also large polka dots, black and white checks, trousers worn with ordinary or safari jackets, and teamed, according to mood, with men ‘s shirts featuring fine stripes or polka dots, or of a romantic white: all borrowings from the vocabulary of Marc Bohan.

Finally, the collection’s atmosphere and references, whether explicit or implicit, lead us into the heady turbulence of the 1960s, illustrative of the changing forces of these female universes.

They change not only fashion, but the contemporary world, too. 

De Saint Phalle became an artist after having a breakdown, and her Tuscan sculpture–filled Tarot Garden of bulbous, colorful, mythical female figures formed the background of the show’s set, inspired the symbols on sequined minidresses, and informed the sparkly cracked-mirror embroidery at the end of the collection.

Will this learning get across? Self-evidently, customers can take it—or they could just take the Mary Janes.

But in this day and age, fashion brands need to stand for something more than just nice product, and Chiuri is determined that Christian Dior puts out a positive message she really does believe in. 

It is a wonderful collection!

 No….

This is a glamour collection!

Do you like it too?

Incoming search terms:

  • BEATA GLINIECKA / PHOTOGRPHER
happywheels

Beata Gliniecka ; Fashion is the love of my life. That's what I'm writing and creating do with passion!

Leave a Reply